There are people who just ooze an unteachable coolness. Even across email correspondence, Leah Dawson—humbly wise and enthusiastic—sends her genuine love for her sport via cybernetic waves. In my research and a mere trek across the internet, her far-reaching skill set becomes evident.
Not to be penned in under a singular label, Dawson is a multi-talented, defy-er of pre-conclusions, wrecking-balling her way through bland stereotypes with a quiet grace; she is sporty and creative, academic and spiritual, talented, self-assured, and endearingly modest. Her sun-kissed, sea-sprayed day-to-day life strikes me as something of real life Moana, completely foreign from the wetsuit clan, chill-blain riddled surfing culture in Ireland.
Being from sunny California originally, you must have grown up around surfing – do you have any stand out memories from your first-time surfing or the first time you became aware of it?
Both of my parents grew up in Southern California when surfing was beginning its industry. They both shared an awe for the ocean and the water, so when we moved to Orlando when I was three, we sought out the beach right away, and my dad had me on the front of his board. I learned to swim before I could walk, so once I hit the ocean, I felt at home and some of my earliest memories are on the front of my dad’s board.
Surfing is often described as a ‘dance’: how would you describe surfing to someone (like me) who has no knowledge or understanding of it as a sport?
Surfing can be a union between nature and human. In order to ride waves, we have to submit to the rhythm of the ocean. The more conscious we are of this, the more it can enhance our spiritual connection to the ocean and the act of riding. I compare it to dancing because it is always beautiful to see entities moving in rhythm together.
You are a very spiritual person and talk a lot of the beauty of women’s surfing without the need to make it ‘sexy’– what do you think it is about the sport that allows you to feel so liberated?
I’ve been a lover of surfing and its culture since I was a young kid, and have seen it ebb and flow with how women’s surfing is portrayed. In small bits and pieces, we’ve seen the spiritual side of women’s surfing, but it has never been a front and centre element of surf brands and the story they are portraying to the culture. Yet we’ve seen a sexualization of women in marketing that mimics the world marketing state of consciousness: women’s sex sells, or at least that’s the paradigm we’ve been living in. Yet there is great room for growth, not just in surf culture but in world culture to recognise women as much more than their t&a [tits and asses] and rather our incredibly, intuitive and creative nature.
I’m excited for women’s surfing because I see it as a microcosm that can effect a bigger whole. We can redirect focus and energy towards expression of joy and real things in life, tell stories that inspire and evoke inclusiveness. We can celebrate togetherness rather than continually exercise individuality.
In your short film LUNAR you talk about the dynamic Hawaiian landscape as being similar to (or how you’d imagine) the scenery on the moon – do you think your fascination with the ocean is based on how much of it is still a mystery to the human world?
We shot Lunar in the Canary Islands which are almost directly opposite the world from Hawaii. The scenery there is so drastic, so moon-like, yet it has the similarities of the lava and reefs of the Hawaiian islands. I’m fascinated by the various landscapes our earth offers to us, and do my best to always feel and express my awe for our home in the great expanse of our universe. The more science grows and we understand just how magical our planet is, I think the more our appreciation will grow for its design, it’s extensive offerings, and for its cycles.
You talk about always learning new things from the ocean, no matter how much time you spend in it – would you say you’re a naturally curious person?
Learning is a gift of life, something I strive for every day. The more we open our hearts and minds to expanding perspective, the more we have to be in awe of. I am naturally curious, to learn how and why things work the way they do, but this is spawned from my overall feeling of awe for all of life. The ocean helps accentuate this awe and curiosity because it is never the same, promotes spontaneity, and evokes communication between humans and something much bigger.
With increased tabloid media speculation on body image, ‘clean eating’ and recent fitness crazes which can encourage eating disorder tendencies and the increased pressure for women to look a certain way; how do you think sport and role models like yourself can help to increase an awareness to healthy body? – that is, a body which is strong not because it looks a certain way, but because of what it is able to do
The heart is what matters, at least to me. We live in a world where judgement is often encouraged, we are constantly pushed by society to create opinions, take sides, to give in to the world of duality, better or worse, beautiful or ugly, good or bad. If we see it from a bird’s eye view, we leave our ego at the ground, and see everything as it is, perfect in its own way. Sure, there is always room for growth and evolution, that’s how nature works, it’s having respect for everything where it is in its process.
With body image, do we all need to look a certain way and wear a certain size, of course not. Yet it is deeply embedded into our current culture to feel inadequate as our raw self, we are constantly being encouraged to embellish our look, to drive a better car, to wear heels that make our legs look great but our back feel the opposite. I think women more than men are held to a judgemental standard and it’s keeping many from feeling a true state of happiness. Beauty resonates on the inside, morality is what matters, this will make for true happiness.
As a role model for younger girls – how do you think that awareness and support could be raised for women in sport so that they are praised for their skill and not for their gender
As women’s surfing goes forward, we can evolve our concept of comparing ourselves to men and what they are doing. Women can be encouraged to surf however they feel. I think we have just begun to explore the elegance a woman can have on a surf board.
You are an ambassador for Keep A Breast– is there any particular reason why this cause struck a chord with you?
Keep A Breast Foundation and its founder Shaney Jo have been an integral part in my path to healthy, non-toxic living. Most cancer organizations focus on finding cures while KAB focuses on educating our world about the causes of cancer, how to prevent it, and early detection. Our world is figuring out that not everything on the shelves is actually safe, in fact it’s quite the opposite. So, it is up to us to individually seek out what is safe and what is not. Just because it has a price tag on it, doesn’t mean it’s got your best intention at heart. Much of this world is designed to take our money and our health. We must wake up to this and vote with our dollar. Eat food that’s real, rather than poisoned. It’s crazy to me that this is a reality on our planet, it’s sad, yet we must be a force for change.
As well as being a surfer you also make films (winning the Go Pro Surfer Award in 2015 for your short film) and music – as a creative person what keeps you inspired?
I’ve always been interested in visual media as a means to influence ideas, emotions, and inspire ways of living. I’ve witnessed how media can persuade people, enlighten lives, or on the other end, keep some in the vicious cycle of feeling nothing is enough, of constant judgement.
I came to film-making in college, wanting a way to express myself and open a career that would allow me to exercise my good intentions and desire to have a positive impact on the world around me. Anytime we engage our creativity we connect with a very natural part of ourselves. Watching films and pieces that leave me feeling inspired or teach me something are my favourite. I love to play music, and write creatively, just as I love to listen and read. I prefer music that has a calm or groovy energy and books that expand my soul’s horizon.
Surfing is a sport which can be quite solitary – do you prefer to surf alone or with other people? – do you use your sport as a means to reflect and for introspection?
There are times when surfing by myself is the medicine that I need, to be calm and quiet so that I clearly hear the conversation I am having with the sea. The sea has become a friend in a sense, a sounding board, a revealer of truths, a bringer of lessons. In this way, I always appreciate when I’m with the sea.
Surfing with friends is an incredible experience to share as well. I love seeing my friends ride waves in their own unique ways, cheering for each other, sharing waves, celebrating together. No matter what, surfing is about celebrating. As soon as that’s not the case, or there’s a gnarly vibe in the water, I remove myself to return again with a clean slate, a calm state of mind, and an utmost respect for Momma Sea.
What other sports do you enjoy?
I played nearly every sport growing up. I love challenge, being on a team, progressing, practising. Water Polo, Swimming, Basketball, Golf, softball, jump rope, soccer, diving, I played a lot of sports but none of them gave me the spiritual satisfaction that surfing does.
I love watching the Olympics. I always wanted to be an Olympic athlete but never could decide which sport. Now that surfing will be a part of the 2020 games, I think I partly shattered my mom’s mutual dream when I told her I didn’t want to try to qualify! It’s not the kind of surfing I like to do, and competitive surfing has lost its appeal for me personally. I feel my energies are much better served working with the creative part of the culture. I admire those who compete and can maintain that die-hard state of mind I’m also happy that I feel happy and relieved to leave that part of surfing behind me.
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